Nutrition
Expedition to South Africa
Through my work with Lifelong AIDS
Alliance, I was invited to join the
Association of Nutrition Services Agencies'
(ANSA) nutrition team on a trip to South
Africa. Here we are working with an NGO
(non-governmental organization) called
Ikamva Labantu (translated this
means: The Future of Our Nation) to help them integrate nutrition
services into their programs. This is the second trip for some of
the members of our team, and it is my first trip.
February 29 -
March 2, 2008
Our team includes our leader, Mary Reed,
from ANSA in Washington, DC; Patrick, also from Lifelong; Rosario, from Community Servings in
Boston; and Ben from AIDS Project Los Angeles. Patrick and I left Seattle on
March 28th and arrived in Cape Town after
about 23 hours of travel on the 29th...I was
very excited not to have missed the leap
year!
After arriving at our guest house at
around 11pm we were of course exhausted and
retired to our rooms for the evening. The
next day Rosario and Patrick took Ben and I
on a walking tour from our neighborhood to
the waterfront. It was a gorgeous day - it
is fall here and the weather has been in the
70s during the day with plenty of sunshine
(hooray for vitamin D!) and in the 60s in the evening with
comfortable breezes.
The waterfront is littered with all varieties
of tourist shops, a large mall, and many
different restaurants. There are many locals
and tourists out and about enjoying the sun.
Just off the shore one can see Robben
Island, the home of the prison that confined
Nelson Mandela for so many years. We had
lunch a wonderful Portuguese cuisine
restaurant. I had a gorgeous chick pea salad
and sweet potato fries.
On Sunday we went to Table Mountain,
taking a cable car nearly straight up to the
summit. From the top of Table Mountain you
can see 360 degrees around Cape Town and the
surrounding townships, it was absolutely
amazing. We hiked around the top of the
mountain for about 2 hours. The foliage
included a variety of succulents that I have
never seen before. We saw several small
lizards climbing about the rocks.
Unfortunately I didn't see any rock dassies,
a small relative of the elephants that looks
similar to a Colorado prairie dog.
After our trip to Table Mountain we went
to lunch a The Manhattan Cafe, a trendy cafe
and bar near our guest house. I had a small
salad and an aubergine (eggplant) dish that
was a consistency similar to lasagna. After
resting for a bit we met up for dinner at
The Nose, a restaurant where the waiters
where shirts that say "Thanks for
picking us on the back"! I had some
broccoli cheese soup (quite yummy!) and a
penne pasta dish.
A notable experience for me is that
everywhere we have gone all the service
people have been blacks or
"colored" (Indians and mixed race)
people, while nearly all of the customers
have been white. So while apartheid has
ended, racial divides are still very deep in
this county. Also, while we can
appreciate the gorgeous tourist offerings of
Cape Town, this not how many South Africans
live...
Working in the
Townships
Ikamva Labantu has a complex program that
reminds me of the Bangladesh Integrated
Nutrition Program, however this is a totally
different context - political and social and
this program is run completely
by an NGO, not the government. The
organization's many services currently
includes home-based community workers and
community centers providing services and
support to seniors, mothers, young children,
vulnerable children, and fostering women
through senior center activities, child care
centers (crèches), meal programs, and
community gardens. It's an exciting amount
of information to absorb. This morning we
learned more about the issues facing
home-based care workers as they provide
services to those in need in their
communities. Poverty, unemployment, HIV and
other STIs, lack of resources including
food, limited access to medical facilities -
these are barriers to improving health of
the people living in townships surrounding
the city.
After meeting with the home-based workers
we met with a group of grandmas who were
having lunch in the senior center -
currently a room within the community
center. Many of these women suffer from arthritis,
problems with vision, diabetes, heart
disease, and are obese. They
told us about how it is cheaper for them to
purchase flour, rice, mealy mealy, and samp
to feed themselves and their
children/grandchildren then to buy healthful
vegetables and fruit. Many of them have
between 8-10 people living in their homes.
There is a term for what we are witnessing
in Africa - "nutrition transition"
- experiencing macronutrient (caloric) malnutrition
and starvation alongside
obesity and micronutrient malnutrition. Many
of the chronic diseases we see in the states
are presenting themselves here including
diabetes, high blood pressure, and heart
disease.
Next, we traveled through the
townships to another site. The townships for
the most part consist of thousands of shacks
build from scrap metal - much of which has
been taken from abandoned construction
projects and buildings. There are also small
single family homes, many of which have
shacks built up in their yards - allowing
someone to build a shack on your property is
a way to earn some extra income. Until
recently many of the townships did not have
waste facilities, and many of them still do
not. However, there have been some
improvements including the building of community
toilets.
We visited a home where one mama is
currently caring for 14 foster children with
little government support to feed and cloth
the children. Ikamva Labantu is helping to
support her care of the children ranging
from several months in age to 19
years.
Later that afternoon we visited a crèche
in one of the townships. I now know what the sound of over one
hundred small children sound like when they
all greet you at once!
The five crèche carers look after just over
100 children whose parents pay to leave them
there while they go to work. Some parents
aren't able to pay for the care service and
they are able to leaver their children too. That's about 20
children per care giver to manage! It's
actually more because of one the carers is
the cook who is often in the kitchen
preparing either breakfast or lunch for the
children. There are children ranging from
ages 0-5 years of age and they are organized
into an L shaped space by age - the young
babies laying on mats, the 2-3 year olds in
another portion of the room, and the 4-5
year olds in the largest portion of the
room. The children sang several songs to us
and engulfed the space around our legs. One
little boy gently wrapped his arms around my
legs to give me a hug. They were so lively
and curious about us. When we left, I said
goodbye to the young children and quickly
learned a
traditional way of saying
"it's cool" or even "goodbye"
by saying "shaarp"
while simultaneously touching one's thumbs
up sign to another's thumb...a moment after
I caught onto this, I was surrounded by
children wanting me to touch their thumbs as
well. It was a beautiful way to leave the crèche.
After the crèche we visited the site of
one of the community gardens where they are
growing aubergine (eggplant), peppers, celery, herbs,
and many different greens. The plan is to
build a health center on the same property.
I love that the organization seeks to have a
mission that combines food
production with preventative health
services.
We then returned to our guest house and
went to the Fireman's Arms for dinner. It's
a nice pub with all sorts of varieties of
food. I ordered a salad and one of the most
garlic filled pizzas I've ever had - it was
delicious. The irony of spending the day
with people who do not have enough food to
feed themselves and their families and our
ability to leave that environment and have a
meal with almost overwhelming amounts of food was
not something that escaped our minds and
hearts as we shared our dinner. I am reminded
that I have much to be grateful
for. And each day I am honored to
participate in this work.
As they say, "Shaarp!"
~Kelly